Bali's Gentle Giants: A Diver's Guide to Encountering the Elusive Mola Mola (Ocean Sunfish)

Ever dreamt of seeing something truly unique underwater? Something that looks like it swam straight out of a prehistoric ocean? If so, the elusive Ocean Sunfish, or Mola Mola, is probably high on your list! Often described as a “swimming head” or “giant floating blob”, this incredible creature is unlike any other fish you’ll encounter. And guess what? The waters around Bali, particularly near Nusa Penida, Nusa Lembongan, and Nusa Ceningan, are considered a prime location – perhaps even the best place in the entire world – to spot them consistently. The quest to find one is like, well, a quest!

Meet the Mola Mola: More Than Just a Big Fish

So, what exactly is a Mola Mola? First off, the species most commonly sighted in Bali isn’t the Mola mola (Common Sunfish), but actually Mola alexandrini, the Bumphead Sunfish. They’re also known by other names like Moonfish. Their appearance is unmistakable – a flattened, disc-like body with huge fins top and bottom, and no true tail. That “truncated” shape develops because the fin they’re born with simply doesn’t grow, folding into a rounded rudder called a clavus. Mola is actually Latin for “millstone,” describing their round shape.

And are they big? Absolutely! These are the heaviest bony fish on Earth. Large specimens can reach over 4 metres in height (from tip of dorsal fin to tip of anal fin) and 3 metres in length, weighing more than 2000 kilograms (over 2 tons). Imagine that! They start life tiny, just 2mm long, but grow incredibly fast.

Despite their size, they’re generally shy, docile, and completely harmless to humans. They’re not the most graceful swimmers, mainly using those big dorsal and anal fins to propel themselves. What do they eat? Primarily jellyfish, along with squid, small fish, crustaceans, zooplankton, and even eelgrass and sponges. Because jellyfish aren’t very nutritious, they have to eat huge amounts – a 120 kg sunfish might need to gobble up 70 kg of jellyfish every day!

Interestingly, Mola Molas are prone to carrying a lot of parasites, sometimes up to 40 different kinds. This is a big reason they come up from the deep…

Why Bali’s Waters Are a Mola Mola Hotspot

So, why Bali, specifically? The answer lies in the unique conditions around the Nusa Islands (Nusa Penida, Nusa Lembongan, and Nusa Ceningan), just a short boat ride from mainland Bali (Sanur).

The key is the cool, deep water. Strong currents between the islands bring nutrient-rich, colder water up from the Indian Ocean depths – a phenomenon known as upwelling. This cold water is perfect for Mola Molas, who usually live in deeper waters (often 400-600 metres down). When the cooler water comes up, it attracts their prey and also makes the shallower depths more comfortable for them.

Another huge draw are the cleaning stations. These are spots on the reef, usually rocky points, where the Mola Molas hang out to have smaller fish pick parasites off their skin. You’ll often see Bannerfish and Emperor Angelfish doing the job. Fun fact: Bali’s waters are one of the only places in the world where Emperor Angelfish are seen cleaning Mola Molas!

A Mola Mola underwater in Bali

Timing Your Trip: When to Find the Giants

While Mola Molas are present in Bali’s waters year-round (usually in the deep), their peak season for coming into depths accessible to divers is typically from July to October or early November. This aligns with when the water temperature drops.

For the most consistent sightings, the sources generally agree that August and September are your best bet. By November, as the water warms up again, your chances might decrease.

Remember, nothing in nature is ever guaranteed, but planning your trip during these months significantly increases your odds! Allowing for a couple of diving days also helps maximise your chances.

Where to Go: Top Dive Sites

The main action for Mola Mola sightings is concentrated around the channel between Nusa Penida, Nusa Lembongan, and Nusa Ceningan. Here are the top spots mentioned in the sources:

Crystal Bay (Nusa Penida): This is arguably the most famous site for Mola Mola encounters, known for its clear water and multiple cleaning stations. Mola Molas are typically found deeper here, often between 25 and 40+ metres. Crystal Bay is diveable by beginners to experts, but to see the Molas down deep, you need to be qualified (more on that in a sec!).
Manta Point (Nusa Penida): While famous for Manta Rays, one source claims this is actually the best dive site to see Mola Molas! It has a deep cleaning station around 30 metres, and is considered an “untouched and less visited spot” for Mola Molas compared to other sites. It requires good air management due to the swim distance to the cleaning station.
Gili Mimpang & Tepekong (Near Padang Bai): Located about a 30-minute boat ride from Padang Bai by traditional Jukung boat. These sites are known for unpredictable currents, but can offer “major surprises” and frequent sightings. Go as early as possible for the best chance. One dive centre holds a record of seeing 18 Mola Mola in a single dive at Gili Tepekong! Another recalls a giant sunfish following them for most of a dive there.
Blue Corner (Nusa Lembongan): Described as the “golden ticket” during the Mola Mola season. If you dive here once or twice during the peak season, you’re “almost guaranteed” to see one. However, this site is for highly experienced divers only due to incredibly strong, unpredictable currents that can reach speeds of 50 km/h or more. Negative entry is mandatory.
Other sites: Mola Molas can also be seen at other sites around Nusa Penida and Nusa Lembongan like Ped, Sental, Gamat Bay, SD Point, Buyuk, Toyapakeh, Mangrove, and Ceningan Wall. Sightings at Gamat Bay include 14 Mola Molas on one dive, 3 at Ped, and 3 at Sental on July 20, 2024.

Are You Qualified for the Quest?

To increase your chances of seeing Mola Molas, which are typically found in deeper waters, you generally need to be certified to go deeper than the basic Open Water maximum depth of 18 metres.

Most dive centres require a minimum Advanced Open Water certification. This allows you to dive to 30 metres, which is often where cleaning stations are located or where they are frequently spotted. Some sources suggest depths up to 40 metres are common, and they can be seen as deep as 65 metres. A Deep Diver specialty might also be beneficial.

Besides certification, some centres recommend a minimum of 30 logged dives to be comfortable with the potentially strong currents and conditions around the Mola Mola sites. You’ll also need to be prepared for cold water due to thermoclines (where warm and cold water layers meet), which can drop to as low as 16°C. A thicker wetsuit is a must! Good air management is also key, especially at sites like Manta Point.

While occasional sightings can happen as shallow as 5 metres, chances are low during a Discover Scuba Diving experience (which is limited to 12 metres). But hey, you could get lucky!

The Encounter: What to Do (and Not Do!)

Spotting a Mola Mola is often described as being “like a quest”, and a good dive guide is crucial. They know where to look and how to read the signs, like the sudden chill of a thermocline and the presence of cleaning fish waiting around a rocky point.

If you are lucky enough to encounter one, it’s vital to act responsibly. These gentle giants are shy and can be easily spooked. Here are some key guidelines from the sources:

Do not touch any marine life, including Mola Molas. This can remove their protective mucus layer and make them vulnerable to infection. If one approaches you, stay still.
Maintain a safe distance. The recommendation is generally at least 3 metres when they are near the reef or cleaning stations, and at least 10 metres when they are elsewhere.
Approach slowly and within their field of vision.
Avoid sudden movements, splashing, or excessive bubbles. Don’t position yourself directly below or above them. Try to minimise bubbles if they swim above you.
Do not surround the fish or block their escape routes.
Do not approach or disturb the cleaning stations. If you disturb the cleaner fish, the Mola Molas may not return.
Listen to and follow your dive guide’s instructions. Your guide should be closer to the fish than you are.
Avoid using flash photography as it can startle them. Use natural light.
Maintain good buoyancy and be mindful of your fin kicks around coral.

Following these practices ensures a safe and enjoyable experience for you and, most importantly, allows the Molas to do what they need to do (like get cleaned!).

Memories and Milestones: Stories from the Deep

The sources include some amazing anecdotes of past Mola Mola encounters:

The record sighting of 18 Mola Mola in one dive at Gili Tepekong.
A dive at Gamat Bay on October 8, 2018, where divers stopped to admire one, then two, then three, until they realised they were surrounded by 14 Mola Mola!
Seeing three Mola Molas join the dive one after another at Ped, causing one guide to do an underwater somersault.
On September 14, 2023, a dive at Manta Point saw not just Manta Rays, but also two Mola Molas.
At Sental on July 20, 2024, after encountering a thermocline and waiting bannerfish, divers saw a marbled ray, then two magnificent sunfish, and finally a third joined the spectacle at 37 metres.
Another dive at Manta Point on August 31, 2019, yielded four beautiful sunfish and a Manta Ray.
A personal first encounter at Crystal Bay at 25 metres on September 1, 2017.
One memorable dive at Gili Tepekong on November 13, 2019, where a giant sunfish followed the divers for almost the entire dive.

These stories highlight that while not guaranteed, encounters, sometimes multiple ones on the same dive, are definitely possible with the right timing and guidance.

Conservation and Beyond: Protecting the Giants

The Mola Mola, despite its size, faces threats. Overfishing (where their flesh is considered a delicacy in some cultures), accidental capture in fishing nets, and even mistaking sea trash like plastic bags for jellyfish can harm them. Their population is considered vulnerable with a decreasing trend.

Fortunately, efforts are underway to protect them. The Nusa Penida Marine Protected Area plays a vital role. Divers can contribute through citizen science initiatives like “Match My Mola,” which uses diver photos to track and understand their movements and populations. There are also conservation programs in the area focusing on marine megafauna.

Remembering to dive responsibly and follow guidelines is a direct way you can help protect these magnificent animals and their crucial cleaning stations.

Planning Your Adventure: Practical Tips

Ready to embark on your own Mola Mola quest?

Getting there: The easiest way to reach the main Mola Mola sites around Nusa Penida/Lembongan is via speedboat from Sanur on mainland Bali. For sites like Gili Mimpang and Tepekong, you’ll travel to Padang Bai first and then take a traditional boat.
Choosing a dive operator: Look for centres that are experienced in Mola Mola encounters and prioritize responsible diving practices and small group sizes. Some might offer packages or guarantees related to Crystal Bay dives, but remember variety is good, and Molas can be found at many sites.
Insurance: Licensed operators often recommend considering travel and diving insurance.
Combine with training: It’s definitely possible to encounter Mola Molas while doing PADI courses like Advanced Open Water, Rescue Diver, or even Divemaster in the area.

Conclusion: An Unforgettable Experience

Encountering a Mola Mola underwater in Bali is a truly special and unforgettable experience. Their unique appearance, immense size, and the sheer privilege of seeing them in their natural habitat, perhaps getting cleaned at an underwater spa, is something that will stay with you long after your dive is over.

By planning your trip during the right season, preparing appropriately, and most importantly, diving with respect for these gentle giants and their environment, you give yourself the best chance of meeting one.

Happy Mola Mola hunting!