Dive the USAT Liberty Wreck in Bali: History, Marine Life & Dive Guide
Ever wondered what it's like to explore a real-life piece of history, teeming with vibrant marine life? Well, in Tulamben, Bali, you can do just that! The USAT Liberty shipwreck isn't just another dive site; it's a captivating blend of historical significance and breathtaking underwater beauty. Divers from all corners of the globe flock here, drawn by the promise of exploring one of Indonesia's most famous and easily accessible wrecks. So, grab a cuppa and let's dive into what makes the Liberty so special!
A Tale of Two Worlds: The History of the USAT Liberty
The story of the USAT Liberty is a fascinating one, spanning across two world wars and a dramatic volcanic eruption. Originally named the SS Liberty Glo
-
World War I Service: Launched on June 19, 1918, by Federal Shipbuilding Kearny in New Jersey, she was soon acquired by the
United States Navy and commissioned as part of the United States shipping board during World War I. Her initial task was quite different from her wartime duties, transporting horses from New York to France in October 1918. Over the next six months, she made two more voyages carrying general cargo and even live animals. Before being decommissioned, she transported a hefty amount of US Army cargo and steel rails, arriving back in Virginia in April 1919. She was officially decommissioned on May 7, 1919, and returned to the United States Shipping Board.
-
Interwar Years: But the Liberty’s sailing days weren’t over just yet! Between World War I and World War II, she continued to sail. However, she had a bit of a clumsy streak, unfortunately colliding with other vessels twice.
- In 1929, she tangled with a French tug, the Dogue, in France, sadly causing the tug to sink and the loss of two crew members.
- Then, in 1933, she collided with an American cargo ship, the Ohioan, near New York. Despite these mishaps, the Liberty soldiered on.
-
World War II and the Torpedo Strike: Then came world war II, and in 1939, the Liberty, still owned by the United States Maritime Commission, was operated by the Southgate-Nelson Corporation. By November 1940, the United States Army took her over for defense service, re-designating her the USAT Liberty (United States Army Transport) and arming her with two cannons. When the US entered WWII in December 1941, the Liberty was serving in the Pacific. Tragedy struck on January 11, 1942, while she was en route from Australia to the Philippines, carrying crucial materials like railway parts and rubber. About ten nautical miles southwest of the Lombok Strait, near Bali, she was hit by two torpedoes from the Japanese submarine I-166. Luckily, she didn’t sink immediately. The US destroyer Paul Jones and the Dutch destroyer Van Ghent tried their best to tow the damaged Liberty to a safe harbor in Singaraja, on Bali’s northern coast. However, she had taken on too much water and had to be beached on the east coast of Bali in Tulamben. Thankfully, the cargo and equipment were salvaged. For 21 long years, the Liberty rested on the beach. Locals even took some of the valuable items and parts of the ship’s deck. But the final chapter of her journey came in 1963, with the devastating eruption of Mount Agung. The earthquakes accompanying the eruption pushed the wreck about 25 meters (some sources say 50 meters) offshore and caused her hull to break into two pieces. She now lies on a sandy slope at depths ranging from 5 to 30 meters, roughly 40-50 meters from the shore, with her bow pointing north and lying on her side. It wasn’t until the 1970s that Tulamben’s residents rediscovered the wreck, and it soon became a sensation among divers. Why the Liberty Reigns Supreme: The Allure for Divers So, what makes this old warship such a diving hotspot? Plenty, my friend! • Easy Peasy Access: The Liberty is one of the easiest wreck dives in the world to access. It’s a shore dive, meaning you literally walk into the water and swim a short distance – around 25-50 meters – to reach it. The highest point is only about 2.5-5 meters deep, making it accessible even for snorkelers. • A Story You Can Dive Into: Knowing the Liberty’s history adds a whole other dimension to the dive. From her WWI beginnings to surviving a torpedo attack in WWII and then being moved by a volcanic eruption – it’s a story like no other. • Underwater Wonderland: Over the decades, the wreck has transformed into a stunning artificial reef. It’s now covered in vibrant hard and soft corals, gorgonians, and sponges. Marine biologists estimate that over 400 different species of reef fish call the Liberty home. You’ll often spot schools of trevally, barracuda, sweetlips, groupers, angelfish, surgeonfish, and if you’re lucky, turtles and blacktip reef sharks. Keep your eyes peeled for macro critters like nudibranchs, pygmy seahorses, and ghost pipefish too. Sadly, some divers have noted that bumphead parrotfish sightings, particularly at sunrise, have become less frequent. • Still Recognizable: Despite being underwater for so long, many of the ship’s features are still visible. You can make out the deck, cargo holds, and even parts of the steam engine and boilers. There are even opportunities for partial swim-throughs in areas like the cargo hold and around the rudder. You can spot the stern (5-20m), rudder (10m), stern gun (20-25m), engine boilers (15m), cargo hold (17m), ladders (25m), and the bow (20-28m). Be mindful though, the wreck is unstable, and parts collapse over time. • Diveable Year-Round: Bali’s tropical climate means you can dive the Liberty pretty much any time. Water temperatures are a comfortable 26°C to 30°C (79°F to 84°F). Visibility is generally good, averaging 15-20 meters, and can sometimes reach even more. Currents are usually minimal to mild, making it easier for divers of all levels. • Nitrox Friendly: If you’re Nitrox certified, many dive centers offer it, sometimes even for free. This allows for longer bottom times at the Liberty’s depths. • Sunrise Serenity & Nighttime Wonders: Get up early for a sunrise dive and you might just have the wreck almost entirely to yourself, with beautiful soft light illuminating the underwater scene. Night dives offer a completely different experience, with corals displaying vibrant colors under torchlight and nocturnal marine life coming out to play. • Local Charm: The Balinese dive guides and porters are known for their friendliness and expertise, making your experience even better. The porters, often local women, will help carry your gear to and from the beach, a unique tradition in Tulamben. Remember to say “Terima kasih” or “Suksma” to show your appreciation. Planning Your Dive: Practical Information and Best Practices Ready to take the plunge? Here’s what you need to know: • When to Go: The dry season (May to October) generally offers the best visibility and calmest waters. However, diving is fantastic year-round. The rainy season (November to April) might have slightly lower visibility, but it doesn’t usually rain all day. • Getting There & Staying There: Tulamben is the place to base yourself for diving the Liberty. Nearby Amed is only about 20 minutes away if you’re looking for a bit more buzz. There are plenty of accommodation options in Tulamben, from budget-friendly places like Matahari Dive Resort to more luxurious options like Mimpi Dive Resort and Relax Bali Dive Resort. • Choosing a Dive Operator: Tulamben has numerous local dive shops and tour operators. Look for experienced and reputable centers that prioritize safety and have knowledgeable local guides. Some, like Dive Concepts, offer free pick-up in the Tulamben and Amed area and even free Nitrox for certified divers. • The Dive Itself: Expect a shore entry from a pebble beach, which can be a little tricky with gear, so walking arm-in-arm with your buddy is a good tip. It’s a short swim to the wreck. Depths range from shallow to around 30 meters, so you can explore different sections based on your certification level. • Dive Like a Responsible Legend: ◦ Don’t touch anything! The corals, fish, and the wreck itself are fragile. Remember, we’re there to admire, not to disturb. ◦ Be mindful of beginner divers in the shallows who might stir up the sand. ◦ Respect the wreck; it’s getting old, and parts can collapse. ◦ Consider diving with a local guide who knows the wreck well and can point out hidden marine life. ◦ Support the local community by using porters and being respectful. ◦ Make sure you have the appropriate dive certification. ◦ Check the current forecast, although currents are usually mild. ◦ Think about underwater photography – the Liberty is a fantastic spot for it. A Living Museum: Marine Life Around the Liberty It’s not just the metal skeleton that’s captivating; the sheer abundance and diversity of marine life that has made the Liberty its home is incredible. What was once a cargo ship is now a thriving artificial reef. You’ll see a kaleidoscope of reef fish like surgeonfish, damselfish, parrotfish, butterflyfish, angelfish, gobies, blennies, moray eels, sweetlips, and triggerfish. Keep an eye out for larger pelagics like Napoleon wrasse, occasional sharks and eagle rays, and schools of Spanish mackerel. Macro enthusiasts will be in heaven spotting nudibranchs, pygmy seahorses, ghost pipefish, frogfish, octopus, and cuttlefish. The wreck itself is adorned with a stunning array of hard and soft corals. Preserving Paradise: Responsibility and Conservation It’s crucial to remember that the Liberty is a fragile environment and a significant part of Tulamben’s appeal. The increasing number of divers means we all have a responsibility to dive sustainably. Please, stick to the “look but don’t touch” rule. The wreck is aging, and natural factors like waves also pose a threat. Local communities are discussing ways to protect the wreck, such as zoning and installing signs. By diving responsibly, you’re helping to ensure that this incredible site can be enjoyed for generations to come and that the local community, which relies heavily on tourism, continues to benefit. Beyond the Liberty: Exploring More of Tulamben and Amed While the Liberty is the star of the show, the Tulamben area has other fantastic dive sites worth exploring. Check out the Drop-off, a deep wall dive, the Coral Garden with its macro life, the purposefully sunk Boga Wreck, and other sites like Batu Kelebit, Alamanda, Monkey Reef, Seraya Secrets, Melasti, Sidem, and Gerombong. Just a short drive away is Amed, offering a different vibe with more shops and restaurants, as well as its own great dive sites, including the Japanese Wreck, popular for turtles. Conclusion The USAT Liberty shipwreck is more than just a pile of old metal; it’s a living, breathing underwater museum. Its unique history, incredible accessibility, and the sheer diversity of marine life make it a truly unforgettable dive experience. Whether you’re a seasoned diver or just starting out, the Liberty has something special to offer. So, what are you waiting for? Start planning your trip to Tulamben, experience the magic of the Liberty for yourself, and create memories that will last a lifetime! Get in touch with a local dive center, book your adventure, and get ready to be amazed!